This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. Ender-3 is very often a clogged hotend when holes appear in models. If the hotend is well folded, it works very well and can be printed very nicely even with a standard extruder. But everything must work as it should. Layout … Heat the hot end to the operating temperature of the material inside.
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This board comes from a line of cheap Chinese 3D printer boards and is the successor to the SKR 1.1 board. The advantage of this board is a 32-bit microcontroller that handles more microstepping and many other advanced techniques that the 8-bit board can no longer handle.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. Many newcomers who opt for 3D printing very often choose the Ender-3 or Ender-3 PRO 3D printer. Reason? It is very cheap and easily accessible 3D printer for everyone for around 4500 CZK.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. As the first thing to buy with the printer, I certainly recommend glass or mirror dimensions 235x235 mm and thickness 3-4 mm. Reason? Press pad ( heating bed ) for printers Ender-3 , but Ender PRO-3 is formed by a piece of aluminum plate, which when heated expands and bulges.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. As a second upgrade I would recommend a better extruder. Why? The original arm of the extruder bursts very often, destroying and having a very low downward pressure. The filament slips and the resulting print does not look good.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The third upgrade is definitely a hot end fan and a motherboard cooling fan. But here it is worse. Hotend which has Ender-3 and Ender-3 PRO is not one of the best. This is mainly due to a small heatsink. Due to its size, strong cooling is required.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The fourth upgrade is more complicated. This is because the print cooling is improved. Of course, it is best to completely replace the print cooling fan with a larger one. The original fan does not do much and even if you put it on this adapter , for example, cooling will not help.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The fifth upgrade is not important, but it helps a lot if you are still "breaking" your perfect calibration pad. They are stronger springs (about 25 CZK) to replace those under the printing pad. Due to their harder “character” the printing pad sits on the trolley as stuck.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The sixth upgrade will theoretically be the one you are all waiting for, a new motherboard with other stepper motor drivers ( drivers ). Here again it is more complicated. The new album should give you something more than the original one. Honestly, everybody will offer you today.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The seventh upgrade is more for a more comfortable feel when handling the printer and removing the print after it is printed. It is a magnetic printing pad. But this upgrade is also a step back.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The eighth upgrade is again a major intervention in the printer and is absolutely not needed. It will help quiet your printer, eliminate some problems and make your life easier. A little bit, but better than nothing. What is it about? HOTEND ! Yes! Finally hotend!
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The ninth upgrade will help improve print quality and reduce retraction. In addition, it facilitates the printing of elastic materials. Maybe some have recognized that there is talk of a direct extruder. The cheapest is to print your engine mount and do it yourself. Which is probably the best solution.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The tenth upgrade is not important, but can help you with print quality, especially in the case of a direct extruder. This is the second Z axis. Why is it important? For simplicity, imagine moving the entire weight of the direct extruder / hotend to the right-hand side of the X axis.
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This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The eleventh upgrade is for all who choose not to use glass or have multiple types of print pads. As already mentioned, glass helps to create a flat surface for printing. If you use a different surface, your printing area may not be perfectly flat.
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When I first saw the Prusa MK3s, I realized how quiet the printer could be. Really quiet, almost inaudible. So I try my best for the same results. With Ender 3 Pro :) 1. Springs … At first it was necessary to stabilize the bed, because otherwise one would leveling it until his death. It is a trivial exchange of original Creality springs for some stronger.
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There are many types of printing pads. Glass, Mirror, Ultrabase, but the Holy Grail is considered printing on PEI on a flexible steel plate with a magnetic pad. Advantages:
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This text was automatically translated using Google Translate. There are many different ways to deal with ABL, or Automatic Calibration of the print pad. Currently, the two most common are: BL TOUCH and an induction probe. Today we will show how to connect an induction probe on the example of the Ender 3 printer, with motherboards from the MKS and SKR families.
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This text was automatically translated using Google Translate. Sometimes we get into a situation where we need to connect the fan to a different voltage than the one on which the rest of the printer works.
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