This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. Ender-3 is very often a clogged hotend when holes appear in models. If the hotend is well folded, it works very well and can be printed very nicely even with a standard extruder. But everything must work as it should. Layout … Heat the hot end to the operating temperature of the material inside.
This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. Many newcomers who opt for 3D printing very often choose the Ender-3 or Ender-3 PRO 3D printer. Reason? It is very cheap and easily accessible 3D printer for everyone for around 4500 CZK.
This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The third upgrade is definitely a hot end fan and a motherboard cooling fan. But here it is worse. Hotend which has Ender-3 and Ender-3 PRO is not one of the best. This is mainly due to a small heatsink. Due to its size, strong cooling is required.
This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The fourth upgrade is more complicated. This is because the print cooling is improved. Of course, it is best to completely replace the print cooling fan with a larger one. The original fan does not do much and even if you put it on this adapter , for example, cooling will not help.
This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The eighth upgrade is again a major intervention in the printer and is absolutely not needed. It will help quiet your printer, eliminate some problems and make your life easier. A little bit, but better than nothing. What is it about? HOTEND ! Yes! Finally hotend!
This text has been automatically translated using Google Translate. The ninth upgrade will help improve print quality and reduce retraction. In addition, it facilitates the printing of elastic materials. Maybe some have recognized that there is talk of a direct extruder. The cheapest is to print your engine mount and do it yourself. Which is probably the best solution.
This text was automatically translated using Google Translate. There are many different ways to deal with ABL, or Automatic Calibration of the print pad. Currently, the two most common are: BL TOUCH and an induction probe. Today we will show how to connect an induction probe on the example of the Ender 3 printer, with motherboards from the MKS and SKR families.
This site was created on the basis of a pile of still the same questions on the czech Facebook group to support Ender-3. Therefore, some active members have decided to write answers to these questions, and then this site was created.